伦敦下午茶的10佳去处|London's ten best afternoon teas
The ritual of afternoon tea owes its origins to Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford. As a young women in the early 1800s she lived during a time when it was common to eat only two main meals a day, with breakfast scheduled early in the morning and dinner occuring late in the evening. Weakened and irritated by hunger pangs each day, she decided to schedule time to take tea and snack each afternoon. This private ceremony was firstly done furtively in her bedroom, but over time well-heeled acquaintances joined her and the practice was perpetuated. Nowadays tea rooms and hotels in London and throughout the country offer permutations of this centuries-old tradition. Plenty are pretty much indistinguishable but quite a few offer something unique. Below are some of the capital's best afternoon teas for those who want to experience something special.
Best for traditional afternoon tea: Claridge's afternoon tea
Reviewed by John O' Ceallaigh
Afternoon
tea at Claridge’s hotel is always busy but the atmosphere of
genteel refinement is unsullied by the crowds and continual clink of cups on
china. That’s partially due to the service, which is attentive and agreeably
affable rather than fusty, and the sense of occasion. Guests book up to
three months in advance, so often time their visit to celebrate something
special. The experience is worth the wait. With patient guidance we managed
to select from the 40 teas on offer – summery, pink-hued elderflower tea for
her, smoky Lapsang Souchong tea from China for me – and then sat back as
platters of dainty finger sandwiches and crumbly French pastries were
presented for inspection. Traditional and uncomplicated, the choices were
fuss-free but flawless. We left completely satisfied, and fully appreciative
of why the Tea Guild named it 2011’s ‘Top London Afternoon Tea’.
Top treat: freshly baked raisin and apple scones, served warm with
spiced Marco Polo jam and silky dollops of clotted cream, scooped into a
tumbler like ice-cream.
Address: Claridge’s, Brook St, Mayfair, London W1K 4HR
Days and times: tea is served daily at 3pm, 3.30pm & 5pm or 5.30pm
Cost: £38; champagne afternoon tea £49-£62
Best for healthy indulgence: Brown's Hotel's Tea-Tox
Reviewed by Hugh Wright
Tea-tox at Brown's Hotel. Image: Adrian Houston Limited
Healthy versions of indulgences have always struck me as being a bit
po-faced, but I loved every bite of Brown’s Hotel’s sugar-free, low-fat,
low-carb afternoon ‘Tea-Tox’.Spelt
and rye breads, and lettuce and chicory leaves provided the bases for
imaginative open sandwiches (my favourite being smoked mackerel and quail's
egg), delicious fruit skewers with a honeyed yoghurt dip stood in for scones
and delightful patisseries using xylitol instead of sugar and low-fat creme
fraiche in place of cream were indistinguishable from their full-calorie
equivalents. Served (by wonderful staff) in the elegant environs of the
English Tea Room, the Tea-Tox can even be enjoyed without tea - various
fruit and herb infusions are available alongside ten black and seven herbal
blends. I, however, drew the line at this and ordered a pot of Tregothnan’s
Cornish Blend - milk, but no sugar, of course.
Top treat: a sugarless chocolate cup with yoghurt and berries was far
more decadent than I would ever have thought possible.
Address: Brown’s Hotel, Albemarle Street, London W1S 4BP
Days and times: Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm; Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm
Cost: £39.50; champagne afternoon tea £49.50
Best for fashionistas: The Berkeley's Prêt-à-Portea
Reviewed by Belinda White
The Berkeley hotel has craftily targeted its afternoon tea at London’s diehard
tea-takers: the fashion pack, who rarely conduct meetings over any other
mealtime. Its Prêt-à-Portea
offers everything you’d expect from a traditional afternoon tea but with a
twist: each of the sugary fancies is styled after a key fashion look of the
season. There was a white Burberry trench coat chocolate biscuit, a Stella
McCartney polka dot sponge cake and even a miniature Valentino orange and
ginger cake handbag. Charmingly, the waiter talked us through the
‘collection’ using framed catwalk pictures of the exact outfits that
inspired each creation. Gimmicky? Yes, but beautifully rendered and a
break from the norm. If I had one criticism, it was that The Berkeley seems
to be stuck in autumn/winter 2011 when any real fashionista knows that the
spring/summer 2012 collections have been available since January. It might
only be tea, but still, there’s nothing worse than being so last season.
Top treat: the brightly coloured Lanvin cassis bavarois with crème de
more jelly topped with folded meringue.
Address: Brown’s Hotel, Albemarle Street, London W1S 4BP
Days and times: daily 1pm-6pm
Cost: £37.50; champagne tea £47.50 - £54.50.
Best for a ceremonious experience: Teanamu Chaya Teahouse
Reviewed by Olivia Bergin
Within moments of stepping into Pei Wang’s relaxing Notting Hill Teanamu
Chaya Teahouse, it is apparent that tea, and the meticulous ritual
around creating the perfect brew, is top of the agenda. With no less than 18
teas to chose from – and that’s not counting the bespoke tisane infusions
one can mix and match – it’s hard to know where to start, but the black
lychee variety proved a delightful and tasty choice.
The self-boiling kettle on each table is essential when you consider the tiny
size of the traditional tea pots and drinking cups, but the Chinese ethos is
based around having just enough to drink in the present moment.
Pei’s extensive knowledge and fresh, preservative-free snacks (who could
resist the healthy-sounding citrus, yuzu soft-set marshmallow dusted with
green tea) make this an educational and altogether less gluttonous
experience than the traditional English afternoon variety. Even better,
those taken with their newly discovered brew can buy packets to take away to
recreate the magic back home.
Top treat: The lo mai fan lotus leaf rice parcel - a sticky,
tea-infused rice with braised mushrooms and sweet azuki, £3 was a
revelation.
Address: Teanamu Chaya Teahouse, coach house, 14a St Luke’s Road, W11
1DP
Days and times: Saturdays and Sundays: 12pm - 6pm.
Cost: Tea or tisane, £3.50; snacks £2-£3; minimum charge per head, £10.
Best for Chinese-style tea: Grand Imperial's Oriental Afternoon Tea
Reviewed by Natalie Paris
Cucumber sandwiches are all very well but why limit afternoon tea to triangles
of bread and butter? At the Grand Imperial restaurant at the Grosvenor
Hotel, chefs are offering Chinese
afternoon tea and specially created dim sum as a light afternoon treat
best tackled with chopsticks. Our tiny sweet and savoury dumplings looked
just as pretty on a three-tier cake stand as a traditional teatime snacks.
We started with crispy noodle rolls of black cod and plump, steamed barbecue
pork buns before trying shredded duck delicately layered onto prawn
crackers. But the highlight was the unlimited refills of delectable Chinese
tea, from floral varieties to a fermented option from Yunnan. Oolong Cha
Wang had a heavenly white-blossom scent and a tea made from Osmanthus
flowers was a hit with mother – it’s not only delicious but apparently good
for the complexion too.
Top treat: the unusual rich chocolate dim sum creations, a deliciously
different dessert.
Address: Grand Imperial, 101 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0SJ
Days and times: daily midday-5pm
Cost: £20; £28 with a glass of sparkling rosé
Best for playful luxury: Sanderson Mad Hatter Tea
Reviewed by David Nicholls
Themed events usually fill me with panic and dread, but it was impossible not
to be charmed by the idea of a Mad
Hatter Tea. And what better place to have it than the Sanderson hotel,
whose décor is every bit as surreal as Alice’s ‘tumble down the rabbit
hole.’ And Sanderson’s website makes it clear: no fancy dress. Instead, it
is the menu which takes its lead from Lewis Carol’s topsy turvy tale. Dainty
sandwiches (ham, egg, cucumber and salmon) are made from a rainbow of breads
baked with beet root, spinach and saffron. There is ‘Eat Me’ strawberry and
cream mousse, ‘Drink Me’ elixirs made from layers of passion fruit, coconut
panna cotta and ‘exotic foam’ sipped out of an apothecary bottle, and
freshly baked scones served with clotted cream and jam. It was the perfect
place to bring my Mum and 12-year-old niece, who enjoyed an afternoon tea
that combined glamour with a bit of magic.
Top treat: the scones themselves were perfection. Light, fluffy and
freshly baked - they were still warm when they arrived at the table. Served
with lovely thick clotted cream and divine Alain Milliat strawberry jam.
Address: Sanderson, 50 Berners Street London, W1T 3NG
Days and times: Mon-Fri 2pm - 5.30pm, Sat-Sun 1pm - 5.30pm
Cost: £35 each
Best for literary mums: Chesterfield Hotel Mayfair, tea poet readings
Reviewed by Jolyon Attwooll
On the second Saturday of every month, afternoon
tea in the Chesterfield Hotel Mayfair comes with a distinctly lyrical
twist. Among the gleaming brass and looming portraits of the hotel's
venerable conservatory dining room, Elizabeth Darcy Jones, the
Chesterfield's "tea poet", is on hand to deliver an intimate
rhyming tribute to anyone with an occasion to celebrate, from birthdays, to
anniversaries to Mother's Day. It's an eccentric idea that in the wrong
hands could be toe-curling, but Darcy Jones, who has composed poetry to
cover a range of special events, is an engaging and welcome guest when she
joins tables for recitals, and has taken care for her accessible
compositions to appeal even to those suspicious of verse. She will also
tailor rhymes to the beverage of your choice – her ode to green tea has a
particular zing to it. And the scones, cupcakes and pastries (which received
a Tea Guild Award for Excellence last year) are pretty good too.
Top treat: The delicious chocolate scones, spooned with clotted cream
and home-made jam (only with the chocolate afternoon tea).
Address: The Chesterfield Mayfair, 35 Charles Street, Mayfair, London,
W1J 5EB.
Days and times: Served daily from 1.30pm to 5.30pm. Elizabeth Darcy
Jones will also appear this Mother's Day (Sunday March 18).
Cost: £27.50 (£30.94) Chocolate afternoon tea; £25.50 (£28.69) for the
Chesterfield Traditional afternoon tea; Champagne tea from £33.50 (£37.69).
Figures in brackets denote price including discretionary service charge.
Best for men: Sanctum/CSDR gentlemen's afternoon tea
Reviewed by Andrew Baker
Sanctum Soho is a rock star’s boutique hotel, and their Gentleman’s
Afternoon Tea is a heart-stoppingly unwholesome line-up of red meat,
carbs and saturated fats topped off with high-octane booze and premium
nicotine. You sit on shiny snakeskin upholstery to imbibe English Breakfast
tea in smart china. This washes down snacks sufficient for an army of rock
titans: oysters, rabbit pasties, stonking steak sandwiches, burgers and
miniature hotpots, followed by a comparatively subtle chocolate fudge cake
and Jack Daniels ice cream. The culmination, if your schedule and liver
permit, is a choice of three varieties of JD in silver tankards, with
complimentary cigars to take up to the roof terrace. The food was terrific,
the surroundings swanky and the service spot-on, but how many colossi can
put this away in an afternoon and still give of their best in the evening?
Not Justin Bieber, I’ll be bound.
Top treat: the poached oyster with Bloody Mary relish was an ideal
jumping-off point: keep that down, and you'll sail through the rest of the
menu.
Address: Sanctum Soho Hotel 20 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NF
Days and times: daily 2pm-6pm
Cost: £50
Best for enjoying a cheap day out: Fan museum
Reviewed by Anoosh Chakelian
Taking afternoon tea in the Orangery of a Georgian townhouse is almost as
indulgently nostalgic as the eclectic collection of intricate fans, or
“trifles” as history has often described them, on show at the Fan
Museum. Perched in the heart of Greenwich, it is a short but sweet
little trip through history, displaying an assorted handful of its 4000-fan
collection. Ranging from a 13th century Chinese fan leaf to a bladeless
Dyson, the exhibits tell the story of how fans are a reflection of cultural
change - having even been used to disperse evil spirits at one stage – as
well as frivolous cooling devices associated with incessantly fainting
ladies in corsets. A jaunt through this unpretentious and playful gallery is
followed by a generous afternoon tea, with home-made cakes and two scones
complete with liberal amounts of cream and blackcurrant jam made by the
museum’s owner, for a fan-tastic £6.
Top treat: a satisfyingly hefty hunk of chocolate brownie, moist and
filled with white chocolate chunks, will banish the evil spirits even if the
fans don't.
Address: Greenwich Fan Museum,12 Crooms Hill, Greenwich, London, SE10
8ER
Days and times: Tues 3pm-5pm; Sun 3pm-5pm
Cost: £6: two scones, jam and cream, two cakes, pot of tea
Best for homely atmosphere: The Tea Rooms
Reviewed by Claire Travers Smith
The Tea Rooms in
Stoke Newington is a delightful venue for a homely afternoon tea. Bedecked
with bunting, vintage china and knitted knick knacks, you’re instantly
transported from the hustle and bustle of London life to somewhere else, a
quaint village perhaps where the WI would provide the condiments. The staff
is charming, the tea list is extensive and the vast array of cakes on offer
is enough to tempt any dieter off the straight and narrow. For just £15,
their afternoon tea is more than a bargain, and I challenge anyone to get
more baked goods for their buck anywhere else in London. The finger
sandwiches were more rustic than dainty, but no less tasty, and the
miniature cakes and pastries were not only exquisitely presented but
scrumptious to boot. The tour de force, however, was the light and fruity
scones. I’m still thinking about them now, and how I wished I’d brought some
home with me. Next time.
Top treat: Their fresh, homemade raspberry jam for the scones is quite
possbly the finest jam in London, a fact affirmed by my fellow tea-tasting
buddy, a self-proclaimed condiment connoisseur who was somewhat crestfallen
when she discovered they'd run out of jars to take home.
Address: 153-155 Stoke Newington Church Street, London, N16 0UH
Days and times: Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am - 6.30pm
Cost: £15 or £17 including a glass of prosecco. A special Mother's
Day tea costs £20