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为什么有些奥运选手需要大吃大喝
Why Some Olympic Athletes Need to Gorge

[2018年4月19日] 来源:纽约时报 作者:GRETCHEN REYNOLDS   字号 [] [] []  

Endurance athletes, unlike the rest of us, have the unusual problem of having to work hard to keep weight on. “In your super-high-calorie-burning sports, like distance running, cycling or the triathlon, elite athletes can burn 15 or 20 calories a minute,” says Dr. Michael Joyner, a researcher at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn., who conducts studies of endurance athletes. At the peak of training, these athletes are working out four or five hours a day, he continues.

耐力运动员和我们其他人不同,需要面对一个不寻常的问题——必须非常努力地维持体重。明尼苏达州罗彻斯特市梅奥诊所(Mayo Clinic)的研究员迈克尔·尤纳尔医生(Dr. Michael Joyner)从事有关耐力运动员的研究,他介绍说:“从事燃烧大量热量的运动,例如长跑、自行车或者铁人三项,顶尖的运动员每分钟会燃烧15或者20卡路里。”他还指出,在训练高峰期,这些运动员每天要训练四五个小时。

These workouts can burn 4,000 to 6,000 calories, which “have to be replenished,” he continues, “if you want to train again the next day.” Refueling can resemble an episode of “Man v. Food,” with dinner consisting of things like a pound of pasta drizzled with olive oil (about 800 calories), a dozen eggs (840 calories), an entire cheese pizza (perhaps 2,000 calories) and a pint of Ben & Jerry’s cheesecake-brownie ice cream (1,000 calories). These foods (although not this exact lineup) were described to me by dietitians and officials who work with Olympians as common training-table choices for elite endurance athletes, particularly men. Plus beer (about 150 calories a bottle).

这种训练会消耗4000至6000卡路里热量,迈克尔表示,“如果你希望第二天继续训练”,就“一定要补充热量”。这个重新装满燃料的过程有点像美食节目《美食角斗士》(Man v. Food)里面的情节,一次晚餐包括了各种食物,比如一磅浇上橄榄油的意大利面(大约800卡路里),一打鸡蛋(840卡路里),一整盘芝士披萨(可能2000卡路里)和一品脱Ben & Jerry’s芝士布朗尼雪糕(Cheesecake Brownie,1000卡路里)。为奥运会参赛选手服务的营养师和官员告诉记者,优秀耐力运动员,尤其是男性运动员,平常训练时通常会选择吃这些食物(尽管实际排列组合的方式可能与此不同)。此外可能还会喝啤酒(每瓶约150卡路里)。

One of the biggest issues, they told me, is that these athletes, in their quest for fuel, often turn to high-calorie but less nutritious processed foods — Snickers bars, store-bought chocolate-chip cookies, Pop-Tarts. Even an athlete who intends to eat healthfully can be defeated by nutritional realities. “You can only eat so much oatmeal and tofu,” Joyner says. A typical bowl of oatmeal contains about 150 calories, a cup of tofu about 175. You do the math.

他们告诉记者,这些运动员在补充卡路里的过程中,其中一个最大的问题是常常选择高热量但是低营养的加工食品,比如士力架(Snickers bars)、商店销售的巧克力饼干和果酱馅饼。即使是希望保持健康饮食的运动员也会被营养现实所打败。“燕麦粥和豆腐虽好,也吃不了那么多,”尤纳尔说。通常一碗燕麦粥约含150卡路里热量,一杯豆腐约175卡路里。你可以自己算一下得吃多少碗。

“Dietary fat provides nine calories per gram, whereas carbs provide about four per gram,” says Kerry Stewart, an exercise physiologist and a professor of medicine at Johns Hopkins University, meaning that fat is “energy dense” and desirable for famished athletes — but less so if you want to shed pounds. And even on a pizza-and-ice-cream diet, some athletes drop weight during peak training periods.

约翰霍普金斯大学医学教授、运动生理学家克里·斯图尔特(Kerry Stewart)表示:“膳食脂肪每克提供9卡路里热量,而碳水化合物每克提供约4卡路里”。这意味着,脂肪是“能量密集型”食物,对饥饿的运动员来说非常合适——但如果你希望减肥就应该避免。不过即使餐单里包括披萨和雪糕,有些运动员在训练高峰期还是会减重。

This serves as a bracing reminder that, despite the idea that one type of strict diet or another (Atkins, Mediterranean, grapefruit or whichever) is preferable for weight control, the human body in constant motion can eat almost anything and maintain or — sometimes unwittingly — lose weight. “The overwhelming body of science” about weight loss and food choices “continues to show that any diet will succeed if you take in fewer total calories than you burn,” says Dr. Dena Bravata, an affiliate researcher at Stanford University, who has conducted many diet studies.

这是一个令人振奋的提示——尽管有人认为严格的节食或者其他食谱(阿特金斯食谱、地中海食谱、柚子减肥法或者其他)更适宜于控制体重,但事实是持续运动的身体可以吃几乎任何东西,并且能维持甚至不知不觉地减轻体重。迪娜·布拉维塔(Dena Bravata)博士表示,这种有关减重和食物选择的“终极人体科学”继续证明,如果你摄入的热量低于消耗量,无论吃什么都会成功减肥。布拉维塔是斯坦福大学的客座研究员,曾进行过多项有关节食的研究。

Ultimately, the greatest impediment to weight maintenance for hard-training athletes can be that eating slides down the list of priorities. “We have trouble getting athletes to the table sometimes,” says Alicia Kendig, a sports dietitian for the United States Olympic Committee in Colorado Springs. “They’d rather nap.”

对于刻苦训练的运动员,维持体重的最大问题是,美食在他们心目中的重要性降低。艾莉西亚·肯迪格(Alicia Kendig)是位于科罗拉多州斯普林斯的美国奥委会的运动营养师,她说:“有时候我们很难让运动员坐到餐桌前。他们宁愿小睡一会。”

翻译:何文伟

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