A national park is also a playground.It's a sanctuary for nature and for humans who will accept nature on nature's own terms. -Michael Frome Reading and thinking Sarek National Park--Europe’s Hidden Natural Treasure
萨勒克国家公园——欧洲隐藏的自然宝藏
1 A Summer Where the Sun Never Sleeps
I wake up to the sound of the wind buffeting the cloth of my tent. Even though the sun is brightly shining, telling whether it is morning or night is impossible. I’m above the Arctic Circle, where in summer the sun never sets. Checking my watch, I see that it is 7: 30 a.m. I leave my tent and walk over to the mountain edge. Spreading out before me, branches of the Rapa River flow through the valley below. I’m in the remote far north of Sweden in Sarek National Park, a place with no roads or towns.
风噼里啪啦地拍打着我的帐篷的布,我在这声响中醒来。尽管外面艳阳高照。我也分不清是早上还是夜晚。我身处北极圈之内,这里的夏天没有日落。我看了下手表,现在是上午7点30分。我迈出帐篷,走向山边,展现在我眼前的是拉帕河的支流在下边的山谷中逶迤而过。我身处瑞典北端偏远的萨勒克国家公园,一个既没有公路也没有城镇的地方。
2 A Land of Mountain and Ice
Sarek’s mountains used to be covered by vast sheets of ice. Around 9, 000 years ago, this ice melted, leaving behind about 100 glaciers. Soon after, reindeer began to arrive. Following the reindeer were the Sami people, who made this territory their home. Getting here is quite difficult, so apart from the Sami very few people have ever seen Sarek. In 1909, Sarek was made a national park in order to keep the land in its natural state. Though the Sami are allowed to continue their traditional way of life in the park, no one else can live here, and all new development is banned within park boundaries. At the far side of the valley, an ancient Sami cottage is visible. Close by, there are a few reindeer feeding on grass.
萨勒克的山脉过去被大片冰层覆盖。大约九千年前,冰层消融,留下了约一百座冰川。不久之后,到鹿开始出现。跟着驯鹿之后来的是萨米人,他们在这片土地上安家落户。这里交通极为不便,因此,除了萨米人,很少有人见过萨勒克。1909年,萨勒克被辟为国家公园。以保持这片土地的自然状态。只有萨米人可以在园内继续其传统生活方式、其他人不能在此居住,而且公园边界内禁止一切开发活动。在山谷的另一边,可以看到一间古老的萨米人的小屋,旁边有几只驯鹿正在吃草。
3 Man at Peace with Nature
For hundreds of years, looking after reindeer was a way of life for the Sami. They used the reindeer’s meat for food, their bones for tools, and their skin for making clothes and tents. Since reindeer were always on the move, the Sami would pick up their tents and accompany them. Today, most Sami have houses in villages near Sarek and live a modern life just like their neighbours. But every spring, a small number of Sami still follow their reindeer into the valleys of Sarek, living in tents or old cottages and enjoying their traditions. I am not a Sami, but in Sarek I’ve adoptedsome of their habits. For example, this morning my breakfast is flat bread warmed over a fire, dried reindeer meat, and some sweet and sour berries that I found growing near my tent.
几百年来,照料驯鹿是萨米人的一种生活方式。他们用驯鹿的肉制作食物,用其骨头制作工具,并用其皮毛制作衣服和帐篷。由于驯鹿不断迁移,萨米人会收起帐篷,跟随而去。如今,大多数萨米人在萨勒克附近的村庄里都有自己的房屋,过着与他们的邻居一样的生活。但是每年春天,少数萨米人仍会跟随驯鹿进入萨勒克的山谷,居住在帐篷或旧屋里,享受他们的传统。我不是萨米人,但是在萨勒克,我养成了萨米人的一些生活习惯。例如,今天早晨,我的早餐是火堆上烤热的大饼、驯鹿肉干以及在帐篷周围长的一些酸甜莓果。
4 A Land of Adventure
After breakfast, I pack my bag and set out again. Since I must carry all of my food and supplies with me, my bag weighs about 30 kilograms. If today is anything like yesterday, it will be full of sweat and hard work as I hike over this difficult land to my destination on the other side of the valley. However, I cannot complain. Being in such a beautiful and wild place makes me feel blessed to be alive. Here I am, alone under this broad sky, breathing the fresh air, and enjoying this great adventure. What could be better?
早餐之后,我收拾行囊再次出发。由于我必须带上所有的食物和用品,我的背包重约30千克。如果今天和昨天差不多,那将会充满汗水和艰辛,因为我要徒步跨越这片地形艰险的土地,到达山谷另一端的目的地。然而,我没有怨言。置身这般美丽的荒原,我感到活着是如此幸福。苍穹之下,我独自一人,呼吸着新鲜的空气。享受着这场伟大的冒险。还有什么比这更好的呢? |
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