完美的伦敦一日游
BBC保罗·布鲁姆菲尔德（Paul Bloomfield）(2023年12月19日)
一个人如果厌倦了伦敦，那他也就厌倦了生活。
“一个人如果厌倦了伦敦，那他也就厌倦了生活。”十八世纪的英国文学巨擘塞缪尔·约翰逊博士（Dr Samuel Johnson）曾如此断言。这话老套却又在理：伦敦有人生能赋予的一切。在这里，你可以逛公园、轧马路、锻炼身体，你既能享受私人独处的宁静时光，又能参与到热闹喧哗的公众生活中；草长莺飞，欣欣向荣，人流汇聚——不同肤色、不同信仰、不同语言的人都到这里安家落户。而若你想在一天之内领略伦敦生活的妙处，哪怕只是其中的一小个片段儿，你都不仅需要有旺盛的精力——而且还的起个大早。
早餐
伦敦居民在博罗市场（Borough Market）商贩的叫卖声中迎来每一天。该市场作为伦敦的食品仓库，已有超过七百年的历史。每逢周末，美食家们便纷至沓来，品味这里的手工面包、奶酪和野味。但在平日，从当地时间凌晨两点到早上八点都有批发商叫卖水果和蔬菜。
接下来你可以到蒙茅斯咖啡馆（Monmouth Coffee）享用早餐，喝杯咖啡，抖擞精神。然后再往东走，跨过塔桥（Tower Bridge），欣赏11世纪建造的伦敦塔（Tower of London）。但要仔细欣赏这个诺曼式的堡垒，可就没时间了。还是跳上泰晤士河公共交通艇（Thames Clipper water bus），从伦敦塔码头（Tower Pier）向西驶去吧。
从泰晤士河上可以看见圣保罗大教堂的圆顶。
从甲板上望去，细数一路经过的壮观建筑及其背后的辉煌历史：瞧你右侧的伦敦大火纪念碑（the Monument），它出自克里斯多佛·雷恩爵士（Sir Christopher Wren）之手，为纪念1666年的伦敦大火而设计；接下来出现的是雷恩的巅峰之作：有着圆顶的圣保罗大教堂（St Paul's Cathedral）。往你左侧望去，莎士比亚环球剧院（Shakespeare's Globe）若隐若现，你看到的是这位吟游诗人最负盛名的剧院重建之后的样子；随后映入眼帘的是泰特现代艺术馆（Tate Modern），这是一座壮观的当代艺术空间；你还会看到南岸（South Bank）的突兀的块状建筑区，这块河岸地区是伦敦的艺术中心，充满魔力，热闹非凡，而夜幕降临之后尤其如此。
上午
在滑铁卢码头（Waterloo Pier）上岸，你的对岸是哥特式的国会大厦（Houses of Parliament）和威斯敏斯特教堂（Westminster Abbey）；登上最宏伟壮观的伦敦眼（London Eye）摩天轮，你会享受到独特的空中视角，这段天际“遨游”之旅值得你花一日游里面宝贵的30分钟时间来品味。
走过英国女王登基50周年纪念桥（Golden Jubilee Bridge），桥上往东可遥望泰晤士河远景，站在特拉法加广场（Trafalgar Square）上，伦敦的交通干道以此为中心四处延伸。你身后是纳尔逊纪念碑（Nelson's Column）；左边是通往白金汉宫（Buckingham Palace）的林荫大道（The Mall）。前方是英国国家美术馆（National Gallery），藏有2300多件艺术品；内涵广大，免费游览，因而要择要观之：列昂那多·达芬奇（Leonardo Da Vinci）的作品《圣母子与圣安妮、施洗者圣约翰》值得一看。
往东走入考文特花园（Covent Garden）；避开广场上的杂耍人和人形雕像，找到 Rock & Sole Plaice 餐厅（47 Endell St, Covent Garden），品味传统的英式炸鱼加薯条当作午餐。
大英博物馆的大中庭，顶部是诺曼·福斯特爵士设计的玻璃天篷。
午后
往北走到大英博物馆（British Museum），那里满是稀世艺术品和历史文物，馆体建筑精良，这是到伦敦非去不可的地方，而且可以免费参观；绕行大中庭（Great Court）走上一圈，顶部是诺曼·福斯特爵士（Sir Norman Foster）设计的炫目玻璃天篷，你还可以欣赏令人敬畏的埃及木乃伊、埃尔金石雕和其它无数的世间宝物。
回转头往南走，到Princess Louise（208-9 High Holborn）喝上一品脱啤酒。这里可以说是伦敦最壮观的维多利亚式酒吧了，酒吧内装潢皆是深色木板和刻花玻璃，气氛活跃而优雅。
现在，你该逛逛伦敦的各大公园啦：朝西北方向溜达，到达摄政公园（Regent's Park），继续往前走，还会看到伦敦动物园（London Zoo）。截至2010年，摄政公园已经有200年的历史了，它将途经此处的伦敦人的一举一动尽收眼底，他们或享用美食，或玩耍，或聊天，或打情骂俏。而在伦敦动物园自然围栏内的野生动物世界中，有差不多750种野生动物与世隔绝生存于此。
沿马里波恩高街（Marylebone High St）往南，循着诱人的香气一直朝前走，你会来到品质极佳的奶酪店La Fromagerie。
在华莱士收藏馆（Wallace Collection）对着弗兰斯·哈尔斯（Frans Hals）的杰作《微笑的骑士》会心一笑，再深入到梅菲尔区（Mayfair）探索繁华的街市。
伦敦唐人街是中餐馆和东方美食的聚集之地。
夜晚
伦敦的夜晚应该从到科煲酒吧（Coburg Bar）喝杯鸡尾酒开始。这真是件华丽别致而又令人惬意的事情。
肚子有点饿？东边就是苏豪区（Soho），唐人街有种类繁多的东方餐馆，不过想要品味优雅饮食的人会选择常春藤餐厅（The Ivy）——如果他们记得事先预定的话。
此时，你身处伦敦剧院区中心，但是另一个伦敦地标向你招手示意：现场爵士乐圣地朗尼·斯科特爵士乐俱乐部（Ronnie Scott's），此地有50多年的历史。脚尖还踩着节奏，向东前往别致的夜店：Cargo夜店。这里，舞曲和现场表演彼此交融，兼收并蓄。
在经历了24小时马拉松式的行程之后，你还得填填肚子：Brick Lane Beigel Bake餐馆（159 Brick Lane, Spitalfields）全天供应美味的咸牛肉面包圈——这可是街头叫卖小贩在开始一天工作之前的完美早餐。
（责编：友义）
A perfect day in London
By Paul Bloomfield,19 December 2024
“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life,” asserted Dr Samuel Johnson, 18th-Century England’s foremost man of letters. Trite but true: London is life. It is park life, street life and sporting life, still life, private life and life lived in public; it is animal life, plant life and human life – of every colour, creed and tongue. And if you want to try to sample even a fraction of that life in a day, you’ll need plenty of stamina – and a very early start.
Breakfast
The first of London's denizens to stir are the traders at Borough Market, stocking London's larders for more than seven centuries; at weekends gourmets flock for artisan breads, cheeses and game, but on weekdays wholesalers hawk fruit and vegetables from 0200-0800 local time. Join the eponymous barrow boys slaking their thirst in the Market Porter pub, open from 0600.
Perk up with a caffeine boost and breakfast at Monmouth Coffee, then walk east to cross Tower Bridge and admire the 11th-Century Tower of London. But there is no time to explore that Norman bastion. Instead, hop aboard a Thames Clipper water bus sailing west from Tower Pier.
From the deck, tick off architectural and historical glories as you sweep past: to your right, the Monument - Sir Christopher Wren's memorial to the Great Fire of 1666 - then Wren's towering achievement, dome-hatted St Paul's Cathedral. Looming left are Shakespeare's Globe - a recreation of the Bard's most-famous theatre – then Tate Modern, the imposing contemporary art space, and the starkly blocky South Bank, arts complex, a magical, bustling riverbank enclave, especially after dark.
Morning
Disembark at Waterloo Pier, opposite the gothic might of the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey; a "flight" aboard the greatest of Ferris wheels, the London Eye, is worth 30 precious minutes of your day for a unique aerial perspective.
Cross Golden Jubilee Bridge - on the east side, for vistas back along the Thames - to stand in Trafalgar Square, the heart from which London's arteries spread. Nelson's Column is behind you; over your left shoulder The Mall, sweeping along to Buckingham Palace. Ahead is the National Gallery, housing more than 2,300 artworks; it is vast, and free, so be selective: enjoy the serenity of Leonardo Da Vinci's Cartoon.
Walk east into Covent Garden; dodge jugglers and human statues in the piazza to find the Rock & Sole Plaice (47 Endell St, Covent Garden) for a traditional British fish-and-chip lunch.
Afternoon
Cross north to the British Museum, London's truly unmissable - and free - collection of art and history in an equally wonderful building; circuit the Great Court, topped by Sir Norman Foster's striking glass canopy, and gaze in awe at Egyptian mummies, the Elgin Marbles and countless other world treasures.
Dip back south for a pint at the Princess Louise (208-9 High Holborn), arguably London's grandest Victorian pub, all dark wood, etched glass and lively snugs.
Time for some park life: stroll north-west to Regent's Park - 200 years old in 2010 - watching Londoners eat, play, chat and flirt en route to London Zoo, encapsulating the world of wildlife with almost 750 species in naturalistic enclosures.
Walk south down Marylebone High St, following your nose to the enticing aromas of superb cheesemonger La Fromagerie.
Smile at Frans Hals' masterpiece, The Laughing Cavalier, in the Wallace Collection, then delve in among the opulent streets of Mayfair.
Evening
Start the evening with a cocktail at the Coburg Bar, a gorgeously chic yet welcoming affair.
Peckish? East is Soho, with Oriental restaurants galore in Chinatown, though the style-hungry head for The Ivy - if they remembered to book.
You are in the heart of theatreland, but another London landmark beckons: Ronnie Scott's, home of live jazz for over 50 years. Toes still tapping, head east for the nightclubs of choice: Cargo, hosts an eclectic mix of DJs and live events.
And there's still sustenance for the end of your 24-hour marathon: Brick Lane Beigel Bake (159 Brick Lane, Spitalfields) dishes up fine salt-beef bagels day and night - just right for a barrow-boy's breakfast before starting all over again.